Guides to watches, diamonds and gold
How to recognise a genuine Rolex
A genuine Rolex is recognised by details that must all agree: serial and reference numbers, the rehaut engraving, the cyclops lens, the movement, the bracelet and the papers. High-grade copies imitate many of these features well, so this guide explains what to check and why only a full inspection gives a reliable answer.
Guides to watches, diamonds and gold
Serial and reference numbers
Every Rolex carries a unique serial number and a reference number that identifies the model. On current watches the serial is engraved on the rehaut, the inner ring between the dial and the crystal, at 6 o'clock. On older watches it sits between the lugs at 6 o'clock, under the bracelet, and the reference is engraved between the lugs at 12 o'clock.
Since around 2010 Rolex has used random serials that no longer reveal the year. The engraving should be fine and crisp, and the numbers must match the warranty card exactly.
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Rehaut engraving and the cyclops lens
On modern models the word ROLEX is engraved around the rehaut, and the letters should line up precisely with the minute markers. The crown at 12 o'clock sits exactly opposite the serial at 6 o'clock.
On models with a date, the cyclops lens over the date magnifies it 2.5 times, so the numeral fills most of the window. A weak magnification or an off-centre lens is a warning sign. Rolex also etches a tiny crown into the crystal near 6 o'clock, which is barely visible without a loupe.
Guides to watches, diamonds and gold
The movement
The movement is where a copy is hardest to disguise, but you only see it with the case open. Current models use in-house calibres such as the 3235 in the Submariner Date and Datejust 41, the 3285 in the GMT-Master II and the 4131 in the latest Cosmograph Daytona.
Opening a Rolex needs the right tools and should be left to a watchmaker. Some watches combine a genuine case with replacement parts, which is just as important to discover as a complete fake.
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Bracelet, clasp and papers
A genuine Oyster or Jubilee bracelet has solid links that feel dense and close without rattling. The clasp should open and shut with a precise click, and its engravings and the crown on top should be sharp and evenly finished.
The papers matter, but they can be forged as well. A warranty card is only useful if its serial and reference match the watch, and the box and papers add value only when they belong to that exact piece.
Guides to watches, diamonds and gold
Why an inspected source matters
Today's high-grade copies are good enough to mislead experienced buyers from photos, so no checklist replaces a proper inspection. The safest way to buy a pre-owned Rolex is from a source that opens the watch and stands behind it.
Every Rolex we sell has been opened by our watchmaker, with the movement, serial and reference checked against the papers, and comes with a 24-month warranty. You can see it privately in Helsinki or Tallinn before you decide.
Frequently asked questions
Can I tell a fake Rolex from photos?
Sometimes, but not reliably. Good copies reproduce the dial, engravings and even papers, so a certain answer needs a watchmaker to open the case and check the movement.
Where is the serial number on a Rolex?
On current models it is engraved on the rehaut at 6 o'clock. On older watches it is between the lugs at 6 o'clock, hidden by the bracelet.
Is a Rolex without papers always suspicious?
No. Papers get lost, and many genuine watches are sold without them. A watch without papers needs a full inspection, and it is usually priced lower than a full set.